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It seems to be fairly well documented that the red paint a) doesnt have a clearcoat, and b) scratches easily which I can understand looking at some of the nearly new red bikes at the shop that have loads of swirl marks.

Doesnt anyone have a view or experience on the durability of the white paint in comparison ? Is it better ?

Cheers.

RBW.
 

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I cant give you an experience.. but I too was kinda worried about the paint..

Check out my thread... I have a arctic white and I did opti-coat 2.0 on mine.. couple days a go.. only took 40 mins.

You can do your car with the rest of the 2.0
 

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I cant give you an experience.. but I too was kinda worried about the paint..

Check out my thread... I have a arctic white and I did opti-coat 2.0 on mine.. couple days a go.. only took 40 mins.

You can do your car with the rest of the 2.0
Did the opti-coat change the appearance of the finish at all? Make it more glossy? I am picking up a White 899 this week, been researching paint protection and was curious about the opti-coat. Cheers!
 

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Yeah @92GTA I'm in the same boat.

I'm going to get the paint colour corrected (get the swirls out) then get a 3M style clear coat plastic over the bikes red bits.

Still trying to get quotes, but this bike has had a dramatic first 3000km. Chip from a car door on the tank, swirls everywhere, rear tail light had a rock go through it and my boot scratched the rear while throwing a leg over.

Not having a clear coat is easily the dumbest thing about this bike.
 

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So, what should someone expect as far as an estimate for doing their bike?

Would the cost be different depending on the color?

I would appreciate any feedback from those of you who have pursued this as an option... whether or not you ultimately had it done.

Considering the harsh Texas weather, I am inclined to spend a little change to protect the finish.
 

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do you guys mean it's a single stage paint? Not having a clear coast would make the bike matte
 

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It seems to be fairly well documented that the red paint a) doesnt have a clearcoat, and b) scratches easily which I can understand looking at some of the nearly new red bikes at the shop that have loads of swirl marks.

Doesnt anyone have a view or experience on the durability of the white paint in comparison ? Is it better ?

Cheers.

RBW.
I have 2 scratches on the top of my tank (I have white)...and they are quite deep. Like if you have scratched a bit a gypsum with a sharp object. I do not know how they happened. Too deep for a zipper to have caused.
Looks like they need a bit of filler.....definitely won't polish out!
 

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Hi everyone,

Honda switched over to the same paint system on the Goldwing line of bikes a few years ago. I know a lot of you may be disappointed with the single part paint due to how easy it is to scratch and how hard it is to care for. It is very easy to apply a durable scratch resistant finish to the bike, however it takes a lot of prep work. Here are the products you need and I will detail the steps you must to take to get the most out of this type of finish.

Regular Dawn dish soap

Meguiar's Scratch X
Amazon.com: Meguiar's G10307 ScratchX 2.0 - 7 oz.: Automotive

Liquid Glass pre-cleaner

Liquid Glass
Amazon.com: Liquid Glass LG-100 Ultimate Auto Polish/Finish - 16 oz.: Automotive


The first step is to strip any existing wax that is already on the bike. I use Dawn dish soap mixed in warm water. Wash and rinse the bike as thoroughly as possible. Any bugs, tar, or road grime on your finish will be sealed in!

If your bike is already scratched, or has swirls you must first correct the paint as much as possible prior to application of your first coats of liquid glass. Use the Meguiar's Scratch X and work carefully to remove deep scratches and areas with bad swirl marks. Work in the shade, but check your work in very bright light (daylight) if you can.

After any major corrections it is time to apply the pre-cleaner. The pre-cleaner can remove light swirl marks by itself. So if you have a relatively light or no swirl marks you can skip the Scartch X completely and use only the pre-cleaner. Wipe on, let dry to a haze and wipe off. If you are using the pre-cleaner to correct light swirl marks 2 or 3 applications is best. Again you want to work in the shade and check your panels in sunlight.

The final step is coats of liquid glass. Just wipe on with an applicator and allow to dry for about 10-15 minutes. It dries to a haze and you simply wipe it off. The first few coats this process can be difficult. Check your work in bright light to make sure you haven't missed any spots.

From here you must wait at least 4 hours before you apply another coat! This step is crucial to building a deep glossy finish do not skip it. Apply the next coats exactly how you applied the first. After about 4-5 coats any swirl marks you had before should be fading. After 10+ coats it begins to look like the finish is clear coated. Keep adding coats of liquid glass as you want to build up between 10-20 coats for the most durable finish.

After 5 coats of liquid glass it should be safe to ride your bike normally. Cleaning the bike is extremely easy, bugs don't adhere to the coating and wipe right off. Water spots and road grime should also be easy to wipe off. Be sure anytime you apply a coat of liquid glass the bike is spotless clean! Remember any bugs or grime will be sealed in and be very hard to remove.
 

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I would appreciate any feedback from those of you who have pursued this as an option... whether or not you ultimately had it done.

I got my bike treated with Opti Coat Pro. The whole bike including the wheels was about $300. I can't do anything but recommend it. Dust just comes off like oil on water and it protects the paint really well.
 

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I got my bike treated with Opti Coat Pro. The whole bike including the wheels was about $300. I can't do anything but recommend it. Dust just comes off like oil on water and it protects the paint really well.
Thanks for the feedback. $300 is very manageable. In fact, since I already have the decals applied, I seem to think that the coating might preserve them as well. Now I just need to find someone in my area that I can depend on to provide an estimate. At least now I have an idea of what to expect.
 

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I have 2 scratches on the top of my tank (I have white)...and they are quite deep. Like if you have scratched a bit a gypsum with a sharp object. I do not know how they happened. Too deep for a zipper to have caused.
Looks like they need a bit of filler.....definitely won't polish out!
I have one scratch just like you describe, NO clue how it got there. Pisses me off!!!
 

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I got my bike treated with Opti Coat Pro. The whole bike including the wheels was about $300. I can't do anything but recommend it. Dust just comes off like oil on water and it protects the paint really well.
any before and after pics?
 

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I cant give you an experience.. but I too was kinda worried about the paint..

Check out my thread... I have a arctic white and I did opti-coat 2.0 on mine.. couple days a go.. only took 40 mins.

You can do your car with the rest of the 2.0
Will the opti coat 2.0 leave a glossy finish on the mat paint or our mat color remains the same mat finish?
 

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I have seen a couple of examples of the Artic White discoloring around the fuel cap. The white has turned yellow.
I noticed a bit of that on my tank. Used Chemical Guys matte detailer and it wiped right away. I've found the paint to be quite durable. I'm always wrenching on things around the thank so far no scratches of anything, knock on wood. I had the body work painted red and white with clear coat and it looks amazing.
 

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any before and after pics?

No I don't have any. The bike went from my dealer to the OC guy brand new.

Here are two photos from a few weeks ago. The first one is right after a rinseless wash. I've got no close ups to show right now but the pait is really nice. The OC Pro can withstand 1300 gram of pressure from a sharp point so it doesen't scratch that easily.



 
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