As delivered the rear ride height is not adjustable on the 899. You can put a lower seat on (or modify your stock seat by cutting it down). You can also switch to a ride-height adjustable rear shock or rear linkage and have adjustability that way.
How tall are you @Ad_raz?Does anyone know if the seat height can be lowered? Reason I ask is I'm a bit of short arse. I test rode an 899 today & although I loved it & didn't have any issues I just wondered if it was possible? Seams higher than my old gsxr even with my boots I'm on tip toes lol
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Ok, don't know who your dealer is, so not intending to 2nd guess their expertise, just pointing you and others in the right direction. Ohlins makes 2 shocks for the Panigale, the older TTXMKII for the 1199 which are being discontinued (some distributors might still have some in stock, but unless it's on sale there's no reason not to get the new one) and the new TTXGP which is being released now. The TTXGP has two different versions for the Panigale, one spec'd for the 899 and one for the 1199. The difference is the spring rate and valving, with the 899 version being designed for the progressive-rate linkage that is stock on the 899 (with softer spring rate and valving), and the 1199 version being designed for the flat-rate setting for the track on the 1199. They are identical in dimensions and components, it's only the valving and spring that are different, so either will mount up the same way. Make sure that if you're not changing the linkage to the adjustable setup from the 1199 that you're getting the 899 version of the TTXGP so it's valved correctly and has the right spring rate for your bike. I know many dealers (not sure about yours) are not very familiar with all of the new Ohlins stuff and will just order a "Panigale" shock from Ohlins, which will probably result in the 1199 Panigale model shock being installed. Just worth a 2nd ask with your dealer to make sure they are aware of the 2 different models now and are getting you the correct shock. If they do racing/track stuff they probably do know, but just in case!
If you haven't changed the spring rate then it's a little bit of a toss-up, you can see how it works first and if the rear is too soft in the flat-rate setup then you can put on a stiffer spring and have it revalved for a little firmer setup. Switching to an 1199 shock along will get you a little firmer spring rate but the valving on the 1199 shock is a compromise because it has to operate in both flat and progressive modes, depending on how the linkage is set.If you upgrade to the lineal 1199 linkage do you need to change the factory shock to the Ohlins 1199 shock?
Did you get the ohlin's installed? How much does the ohlins drop the seat height compare to the stock shocks?Quick update went go my dealers today. They are going to fit an Ohlins adjustable rear shock for me. Apparently it's a new product that they've just fitted to their 899 race bikes. It's a little pricey though but think it'l be worth it in the end
Thanks for all the advice guys
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I'm 5"7 and right now i can flat foot one side and the other side is tippy toe. It is not too bad but pretty annoying when i'm on a hill or constantly looking for the right spot to stop the bike on uneven pavements. I choose handling over flat footing both my feet.Guys, installing an Ohlins shock does not automatically "drop seat height". If the stock rear spring is too stiff for your weight, and you put the correct spring on for your weight and set the preload appropriately, then your seat height will likely be lower just becasue there's less static preload on the spring and the spring is lighter. The Ohlins does have a ride-height adjuster on it as well, and you can use that to lower the rear ride height if you choose to. The default setting would be the same height as the stock shock. If you're doing it just to get an easier reach to the ground and won't be pushing the bike hard, then you can drop it an inch or so using the ride height adjuster and the bike will still be funtional. However it will not be set up for the optimal handling if you ride it hard. If you're going to be pushing it, in that case you'd want to drop the front the same amount you dropped the rear so the front/rear weight bias is correct. The bike at that point will handle fine, but you may have ground clearance issues if you go to the track and get up to a pace where you're leaning past 45 degrees. Then you'd want to raise the bike back up. It will also flick side-to-side just a tad bit slower if you've lowered the bike.