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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Removed the side fairing and prepared the work station.
The bolts that fasten around the clutch cover is an 8mm. Make sure you have one handy.



I ended up loosening the right rearset. I used an 8mm Allen key to take off the bolts keeping the rearset attached to the frame.
Theres a cylindrical clamp -- I only loosened this. I tied the rearset to my subframe so it wouldn't dangle freely.



I started from the oil cap as a reference and went around the clutch cover.

The electrical housing box is covering screws. I loosened this with the allen wrench from the red Ducati seat tool kit. Surprisingly very handle kit.



This allowed me to access behind and remove the bolts.



At the bottom of the clutch cover, it seems I've run into a problem.
The bolts are blocked by the stock exhaust.



I'm going to need to remove some of the exhaust to gain better access but I'll do this tomorrow. I'll report again with pictures and keep this thread updated until I finish the install.
 
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Discussion Starter #2
As I started undoing the exhaust, the pipes above loosened. I believe loosening the brackets holding the exhaust and removing the springs around the pipes is enough to get the clearance. This gave me the wiggle room to fit my 8mm wrench in.



The hole immediately started pouring out oil. Get your drain bucket ready if you're not removing the oil. ...

Time to tap and beat on the cover ... It's actually pretty solid and taking it off is proving to be a bit of a struggle. I'm afraid of hitting it too hard and breaking anything with my rubber mallet.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
The DucaBond is tough. After a lot of banging, and I mean a LOT. The cover came off.

The main piece, I banged hard with a rubber mallet until it became loosened a little bit. About 5~7 minutes of this process.

For the top right corner, there was a small piece protruding out, I covered the hammer end with a microfiber towel and pried out the rest.



Make sure to remove the stuff inside -- the new kit should have most parts but. Incase it doesnt.



There are two of these small pins.
 
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Man I'm loving the write up! I'm thinking about doing this sometime in the near future.

Wish I would've done the same when I did the full termi install.

Keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I put the sound damper and the cover plate on the cover.

I used Loctite rated to withstand high temperature 180*C but I've never seen my 899 oil temperature exceed 110*C. Better safe than sorry.

These bolts are torqued to 10 (9-11 Nm).




Next step is refitting the SEALING RING. This needs to be arranged in this order.



This requires a Ducati tool that looks like a male end entering the sealing ring to push it plush against the bottom of the magnesium cover. I used a socket and a hammer and banged it flush.
Then goes the shim.
and the circlip. THE CIRCLIP NEEDS TO BE SEATED IN THE GROOVE. If it doesn't fall inside the groover, continue to press the sealing ring until flush



Also fit in the oil viewer level. (not shown). Try not to bend the metal on the back end as it can bend rather easily so I found out.

I put the gear that came off while undoing the clutch cover. It fits inbetween here.



Using a brush, a derry towel and flat head, and pliers as needed clean the old liquid rubber gasket around the cover. (I think plastic brush would be fine. I used steel because it was all I had that was clean.)



MAKE SURE THE GREEN O-RING AND THE O-RINGS MARKED (A) ARE BACK ON INSIDE. OIL FLOWS THROW THESE O-RINGS.



Next I arranged and aligned the bolts so I know where things will need to go.

 
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Discussion Starter #7
OK. The weight savings figures.


I tried my best to wipe off most of the oil but there's still some left including some rubber gasket around the case. I'd take off maybe 10g to account for that.





STOCK ONE PIECE ~1513g
MAGNESIUM ~ 1170g

Weight savings = 343g or 3/4 of a lbs.

Weight savings are minimal. The real purpose of the mod is to allow easy access to the clutch components. A bonus is that I can now install 959/1199/1299 clutch cover protection units during race season.
 
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I went to my Ducati dealer and purchased "Ducabond" which is just a thermal silicone aka "Hondabond, Yamabond, liquid gasket".




I applied a generous layer and let this sit over night, they recommend letting the silicone set for 5 to 12 hours. I went to sleep and when I woke up, the gasket was a hard silicone rubber.

Make sure the O-rings and the gaskets are where they need to be and start bolting it down.

The bolts to the engine case should be 13Nm. (12-14Nm).




Refill oil to the bike.
Reattach the electrical harness
Fasten your exhaust.
Refasten rearsets and put your fairings on.

Start the bike andmake sure to LISTEN TO THE BIKE. Refill oil until level. Enjoy and hope this was useful. If you have any questions or feel I missed anything feel free to post.
 
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Awesome post! I really want to be able to do this in the near future, thanks for posting.
The single piece cast aluminum clutch was the silliest idea ever. If Ducati wanted to save money, they should've just made a two piece aluminum version.

Looks time consuming. My dealer quoted me 4.0hrs for the clutch cover swap ($400). You think thats a close estimate of "on bike tool time"?
If I was doing it for a second time, I'd probably be able to do it in 4 hours. Follow as written.

Tools:
3mm 4mm 5mm 6mm Allen Key wrenches on hand
#8 mm socket wrench & torque wrench
Rubber Mallet & Hammer
(Plastic Brass or Steel) Brush
Oil pan, Funnel

Directions:
1. Put her on stands and drain the oil.
2. Install oil level sight and gasket to magnesium cover body.
3. Apply silicone gasket to magnesium cover.
4. Remove fairings
5. Loosen electric assembly
6. Remove rearset right
7. Loosen exhaust brackets (The supports holding the clutch side exhaust to the underbody)
8. Remove hose from cast aluminum cover
9. Remove bolts from cast aluminum cover
10. Loosen cast aluminum cover with mallet
11. Remove cast aluminum cover
12. Move O-ring and metal cylinders from cast aluminum cover to magnesium cover.
13. Scrape/Brush off previous gasket
14. Attach magnesium cover body to motorcycle (torqued to 12-14 Nm)
15. Install sound killer and aluminum shield to magnesium cover head (torqued to 9-11 Nm)
16. Attach rubber gasket to magnesium cover head to magnesium cover body. (torqued to 9-11 Nm)
17. Reattach clutch hose, exhaust, rearsets, electric assembly, oil drain plug
18. Fill oil to level, start motorcycle, refill oil to level and cap it.
19. Reattach fairings and enjoy.
 

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What is the sound killer and aluminum shield??


The single piece cast aluminum clutch was the silliest idea ever. If Ducati wanted to save money, they should've just made a two piece aluminum version.



If I was doing it for a second time, I'd probably be able to do it in 4 hours. Follow as written.

Tools:
3mm 4mm 5mm 6mm Allen Key wrenches on hand
#8 mm socket wrench & torque wrench
Rubber Mallet & Hammer
(Plastic Brass or Steel) Brush
Oil pan, Funnel

Directions:
1. Put her on stands and drain the oil.
2. Install oil level sight and gasket to magnesium cover body.
3. Apply silicone gasket to magnesium cover.
4. Remove fairings
5. Loosen electric assembly
6. Remove rearset right
7. Loosen exhaust brackets (The supports holding the clutch side exhaust to the underbody)
8. Remove hose from cast aluminum cover
9. Remove bolts from cast aluminum cover
10. Loosen cast aluminum cover with mallet
11. Remove cast aluminum cover
12. Move O-ring and metal cylinders from cast aluminum cover to magnesium cover.
13. Scrape/Brush off previous gasket
14. Attach magnesium cover body to motorcycle (torqued to 12-14 Nm)
15. Install sound killer and aluminum shield to magnesium cover head (torqued to 9-11 Nm)
16. Attach rubber gasket to magnesium cover head to magnesium cover body. (torqued to 9-11 Nm)
17. Reattach clutch hose, exhaust, rearsets, electric assembly, oil drain plug
18. Fill oil to level, start motorcycle, refill oil to level and cap it.
19. Reattach fairings and enjoy.
 

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What is the sound killer and aluminum shield??
It's an aluminium shield on the inside of the Pani clutch side cover, helps quieten down clutch and gear noise. Some remove it to reduce weight by a couple of grams but I left mine in when I did the swap.
 

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Removed the side fairing and prepared the work station.
The bolts that fasten around the clutch cover is an 8mm. Make sure you have one handy.



I ended up loosening the right rearset. I used an 8mm Allen key to take off the bolts keeping the rearset attached to the frame.
Theres a cylindrical clamp -- I only loosened this. I tied the rearset to my subframe so it wouldn't dangle freely.



I started from the oil cap as a reference and went around the clutch cover.

The electrical housing box is covering screws. I loosened this with the allen wrench from the red Ducati seat tool kit. Surprisingly very handle kit.



This allowed me to access behind and remove the bolts.



At the bottom of the clutch cover, it seems I've run into a problem.
The bolts are blocked by the stock exhaust.



I'm going to need to remove some of the exhaust to gain better access but I'll do this tomorrow. I'll report again with pictures and keep this thread updated until I finish the install.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Very nice job thank you I’ll try do the same strp by step
Saw your thread, glad to see it worked out for you dude. Looks good. :)
 

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I put the sound damper and the cover plate on the cover.

I used Loctite rated to withstand high temperature 180*C but I've never seen my 899 oil temperature exceed 110*C. Better safe than sorry.

These bolts are torqued to 10 (9-11 Nm).




Next step is refitting the SEALING RING. This needs to be arranged in this order.



This requires a Ducati tool that looks like a male end entering the sealing ring to push it plush against the bottom of the magnesium cover. I used a socket and a hammer and banged it flush.
Then goes the shim.
and the circlip. THE CIRCLIP NEEDS TO BE SEATED IN THE GROOVE. If it doesn't fall inside the groover, continue to press the sealing ring until flush



Also fit in the oil viewer level. (not shown). Try not to bend the metal on the back end as it can bend rather easily so I found out.

I put the gear that came off while undoing the clutch cover. It fits inbetween here.



Using a brush, a derry towel and flat head, and pliers as needed clean the old liquid rubber gasket around the cover. (I think plastic brush would be fine. I used steel because it was all I had that was clean.)



MAKE SURE THE GREEN O-RING AND THE O-RINGS MARKED (A) ARE BACK ON INSIDE. OIL FLOWS THROW THESE O-RINGS.



Next I arranged and aligned the bolts so I know where things will need to go.

Hi I've followed this thread and found it very useful. I've removed the cover cleaned it all up but slight concern with the centre gear cog, the gear cog is very worn. When you dis-mantled the cover was there any kind of needle bearing on the end of the centre gear cog or wash it just a washer??
 
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