How to remove rear wheel

22885 Views 33 Replies 14 Participants Last post by Jontosen, Sep 5, 2020

mengels

Discussion Starter · May 15, 2014

Hi,
I was surprised that this question could not be found in this forum (or it's too obvious how to do it...

. )
Can someone inform me how I can remove the rear wheel? Are there some items I need to attenderen to...like the ABS....

Maarten
The Netherlands....

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

rybo

· #2 · May 16, 2014

Maarten,

It's a pretty straight forward job.

1. Place the bike on a rear stand
2. Remove the axle nut
3. With a good hold on the rear wheel remove the axle
4. Once the axle is out slide the wheel slightly forward to remove the chain
5. Once the chain is off slide the wheel rearward and slightly up to remove it from the swingarm.

Pay special attention to the orientation of the chain adjusters and wheel spacers so that you can reassemble.

You don't need to pay any special attention to the abs or others sensors, other than to make sure that the timing ring doesn't get plugged up by anything while the wheel is out of the bike.

You may need to open the rear caliper slightly to get the wheel back in place, but the under slung caliper makes reassembly a breeze.

Good luck!

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Reactions: 1

mengels

Discussion Starter · #3 · May 17, 2014

Hi Rybo,

Thanks for your reply, indeed...it was fairly straight forward....except for the wheelnut...I had to use a great deal of force to remove it. That was one of the reasons for my post... I had to be sure it wasn't a lock nut or any other lock on the nut...
Again many thanks...

Maarten

Jonjen85

· #4 · Sep 24, 2014

HELP what am I doing wrong (noob)

Hello followed the thread advice after getting a tyre changed.

After putting the wheel back on as it came off.. On torquing only slightly the wheel is getting jammed against the brake bracket. Difficult to discribe but i uploaded a photo.

So when the nut is tightened the wheel won't turn. It's stuck and kinda chewing up the wheel. (It's hardly tight at all) It feels like I'm missing a spacer or somthing but pretty sure I have everything as it was when I took it off.

Anyone got any advice or come accross this or even unstandard what I'm getting at.. Need to tow it into ducati dealer.

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rjjr

· #5 · Sep 24, 2014

Jonjen85 said:
Hello followed the thread advice after getting a tyre changed.

After putting the wheel back on as it came off.. On torquing only slightly the wheel is getting jammed against the brake bracket. Difficult to discribe but i uploaded a photo.

So when the nut is tightened the wheel won't turn. It's stuck and kinda chewing up the wheel. (It's hardly tight at all) It feels like I'm missing a spacer or somthing but pretty sure I have everything as it was when I took it off.

Anyone got any advice or come accross this or even unstandard what I'm getting at.. Need to tow it into ducati dealer.

Looks like you're missing the spacer on that side of the wheel.

Jonjen85

· #6 · Sep 26, 2014

Found it (whoops!)

rjjr said:
Looks like you're missing the spacer on that side of the wheel.

The spacer came out during the balancing. Thanks

Reactions: 1

Squashbuckler

· #7 · Oct 5, 2014

Follow up question when refitting the wheel.

The service manual states to use "B" grease. I haven't been able to find out what that is exactly, except that similar questions about "b" grease on other Ducati forums states its molybdenum disulphide. I've gone to Pep Boys and Auto Zone, both had no idea what I was talking about.

Any recommendations?

Thanks!

rjjr

· #8 · Oct 5, 2014

Squashbuckler said:
Follow up question when refitting the wheel.

The service manual states to use "B" grease. I haven't been able to find out what that is exactly, except that similar questions about "b" grease on other Ducati forums states its molybdenum disulphide. I've gone to Pep Boys and Auto Zone, both had no idea what I was talking about.

Any recommendations?

Thanks!

https://www.google.com/webhp?source...8#q=molybdenum disulphide lithium base grease

Squashbuckler

· #9 · Oct 5, 2014

Thanks, was looking if theres a specific brand but I got it now...

Anyways, I got the tire back on per the service manual. I checked the rear break before I put the bike off the stand. It appeared to function properly. However, once I took the bike off the stand, the rear break did not feel as powerful as it once did. I might take the wheel off again to make sure everything is seated properly.

rjjr

· #10 · Oct 5, 2014

Squashbuckler said:
Thanks, was looking if theres a specific brand but I got it now...

Anyways, I got the tire back on per the service manual. I checked the rear break before I put the bike off the stand. It appeared to function properly. However, once I took the bike off the stand, the rear break did not feel as powerful as it once did. I might take the wheel off again to make sure everything is seated properly.

Probably wouldn't be a bad idea the bleed the system. I never use the back break so it's not an issue I'm familiar with.

Squashbuckler

· #11 · Oct 6, 2014

rjjr said:
Probably wouldn't be a bad idea the bleed the system. I never use the back break so it's not an issue I'm familiar with.

Thanks! I think the main thing I forgot was to pump the brakes back into place. If that doesn't work, I'll look at bleeding them.

DucDucGoose

· #12 · Oct 6, 2014

I recently replaced my rear tire. Typically the axles should slide in and out with little force correct? I had to beat my rear axle out with a rubber dead blow. When inspecting the spacer on the kush drive, I noticed it had a slight bur on the inside bore. I sanded that down until I could put the axle in smoothly. Anyone else have this problem? Figured it might have happened from my axle nut being super over torqued. Put it back on with 180Nm

rjjr

· #13 · Oct 6, 2014

It helps to have something to slide under the tire and support the rear wheel. I have a piece of wood that is exactly the right height and supports the wheel weight. The axle will slide right out.

Reactions: 1

Squashbuckler

· #14 · Oct 6, 2014

DucDucGoose said:
I recently replaced my rear tire. Typically the axles should slide in and out with little force correct? I had to beat my rear axle out with a rubber dead blow. When inspecting the spacer on the kush drive, I noticed it had a slight bur on the inside bore. I sanded that down until I could put the axle in smoothly. Anyone else have this problem? Figured it might have happened from my axle nut being super over torqued. Put it back on with 180Nm

The axel came out pretty easy for me. As rjjr says above, if you have something supporting the tire you should be able to it out with relative ease.

mcouper99

· #15 · Aug 1, 2015

mengels said:
Hi,
I was surprised that this question could not be found in this forum (or it's too obvious how to do it... . )
Can someone inform me how I can remove the rear wheel? Are there some items I need to attenderen to...like the ABS....

Maarten
The Netherlands....

Thanks for posting this 'obvious' question, as I'm about to change my rear tire and needed some help as well. Can someone chime in on two things:

1) The threading is NOT English, i.e. loosening is done by turning the nut counter-clockwise, towards the front of the bike
2) Neutral or first gear? The manual says to engage first, but many posts I found say just the opposite.

rybo

· #16 · Aug 1, 2015

mcouper99 said:
Thanks for posting this 'obvious' question, as I'm about to change my rear tire and needed some help as well. Can someone chime in on two things:

1) The threading is NOT English, i.e. loosening is done by turning the nut counter-clockwise, towards the front of the bike
2) Neutral or first gear? The manual says to engage first, but many posts I found say just the opposite.

Sure!

The axle is standard thread, clockwise to tighten, counter clockwise to loosen.

I use neutral because this makes removing and reinstalling the chain around the rear sprocket pretty easy.

A word of caution, this is a dangerous spot on the motorcycle, which is probably why Ducati recommends first gear. Rolling the chain around the sprocket presents a pinch and crush hazard. Pay attention to what you're doing and you'll be ok.

Good luck!

mcouper99

· #17 · Aug 2, 2015

Rybo wasn't kidding, piece of cake. It's so nice not to have to remove the rear brake just to remove the rear wheel. One word of advice. Check the inside of the chain. I thought I was pretty good about keeping mine lubed, but found a few rust spots on the inside, which were completely hidden until the wheel came off.

Reactions: 1

Wuffi

· #18 · Aug 29, 2015

Is it right that it isn't necessary to remove the rear caliper before removing the rear wheel? First tire changing at my Pani is near and i was in opinion to have to remove the caliper?
Ciao

rybo

· #19 · Aug 29, 2015

Wuffi said:
Is it right that it isn't necessary to remove the rear caliper before removing the rear wheel? First tire changing at my Pani is near and i was in opinion to have to remove the caliper?
Ciao

The caliper is attached to a bracket that's held in by the rear axle. The only fastener you need to remove to change the rear wheel is the axle itself.

Wuffi

· #20 · Aug 30, 2015

@rybo
Thanks, in my opinion i have looked very carefully, but this i didn't notice!

Reactions: 1

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