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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Parts:
New Rage Cycle Fender Eliminator Kit (FEK)


Tools:
Long 6mm Hex Key (Allen)
Long 4mm Hex Key (Allen)
Torx 30 bit or driver
Solder Iron
Solder
Wire cutters/strippers
Heat Gun or lighter

Supplies (optional):

Posi-lock connectors
Assorted Washers
Assorted Nuts
Traction or electrical tape

NRG actually has a great and simple guide for mounting their kit, while the pics are of an older kit on an 1199 the differences are small so it's perfectly usable. Still, I decided to post this how to in order to show the kit in more detail (more pics!) and point out some differences in options for mounting and the routing of wires.

There always seems to be lot's of questions about what's included with this kit so I'll start with pictures of the kit as it arrived. I ordered it direct from NRC and it arrived last week of May 2014, it's the latest revision at that point:

FEK and Plate mount:


Hardware on the back, bolts for plate mount, bolt for FEK mount, heatshrink, spacers, and an acrylic retainer nut:


FEK outer and inner sides (led turns are under the adhesive strips) and plate:



Light Testing with 9v battery, plate and turns:



Instructions:

Pull the passenger seat, empty the trunk, and remove bottom access door:


Remove four 4mm Hex Head bolts:



Lower and disconnect turns and plate light, remove tail:



Cut OEM connectors from tail then strip and solder them onto the appropriate FEK leads OR strip and connect using posi-lock connectors. See How-To guide HERE for more info.


So the NRG kit comes with a tapped (threaded) piece of acrylic (Lexan) that acts as the bolt holding the tail in place. The reason for this is because it's cheap and easy; a nut and washer in one piece using a material they have plenty of. Very clever but not quite to my liking so I checked in my parts bins and I happen to have plenty of suitable hardware to fit this the way I want. Of course not using the stock hardware is optional.

Provided mounting solution vs. modified mounting solution (didn't measure the thread pitch, sorry):



The single bolt holds everything in place going through the original wire pass-through. I moved the wires to pass through around the edge since there was plenty of room and wrapped them with traction tape to prevent chafing. You can also see I removed all the rubber and aluminum grommets that were no longer in use.


Loosely position and attach hardware at the top:


Plug everything in:


Tuck wires away, adjust the position of the tail. When you're happy with it you can pull expose the cover on the adhesive tape strips and then tighten things up with the Torx 30 driver. The tape only partially holds it on, the purpose is really to keep the tail in position since there's otherwise only one point of attachment to the bike.


I actually found that a slightly smaller washer would slip through the upper hole but be too large to slip through the lower hole:


Plate mount detail, I didn't bother to take any other pics of this since it's just unscrewing the two 6mm bolts and using the longer provided ones with a spacer:


Finished install of NRG kit (AKA can 5'6" flatfoot with the DP comfort seat):


 

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I also ended up with the 2" bolt...but just went and bought the correct one for $0.65 instead of waiting for one to come from NY
 

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Nice rear!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Great write up. When I installed my kit I noticed I had the 2" bolt instead of the 2.5". If anyone runs into this issue just contact NRC and they will ship you the correct size bolt.
It's reassuring to know they have good customer service.

I also ended up with the 2" bolt...but just went and bought the correct one for $0.65 instead of waiting for one to come from NY
IDK, that 2.5" bolt is annoyingly long. I bet I could get away with a 2" one especially using the small washer like I am. I may have to take a trip to the hardware store to get a shorter one...

Nice rear!
Thanks! I's definitely easy to look at!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Excellent write up!
Do you think you can post another picture with brake and turn signals lighted at the same time? I basically want to see how bright the turn signals are when you are braking.

Thanks!

Probably not going to be able to get to it today but I'm pretty sure there's a YouTube video that shows what your asking for.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks! I's definitely easy to look at!
Totally a typo, that was supposed to say "it's definitely easy to look at!"... since it not my rear in the picture, LOL.

And speaking of typo is there any way to change the thread title I accidentally typed NRG instead of NRC? Should read:

"HOW-TO: Install the NRC Fender Eliminator (and similar)"


...And the video I was talking about which shows the brightness of the turns compared to the running lights and the brake lights (very short), skip to 12s since the first part just shows the stock blinker:

 

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Totally a typo, that was supposed to say "it's definitely easy to look at!"... since it not my rear in the picture, LOL.
Funny... I knew what you meant, though!

I thought I would take another look to see the mods.

Also, the thread could use a bump due to the sudden interest in the kit!

Thanks again for the write up!
 

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This is definitely a nice kit. Too bad I already have the competition werkes installed! Now that I see how this license plate bracket is mounted with the passenger pegs, I think I can conjure up my own version. Looks like all I need are longer bolts and spacers.

Thanks for the great write up!
 

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I just installed mine yesterday, and it looks great. However, one minor detail that was missing from the directions was the fact that the stock wires are both black and polarity DOES matter. I spent a good thirty minutes running in and out of the house cussing up a storm because I couldn't get one of the signals to work. If you hold the female connector with the wires towards you and the slit upwards, the red wire from the signal should go to the left wire on the connector. This isn't an issue for the plate light since those are color coded. The other 'pro tip' is don't put the heat shrink wire over both wires before soldering...:) Yes, it was getting late and I must have expended all of my common sense on figuring out the lighting issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just installed mine yesterday, and it looks great. However, one minor detail that was missing from the directions was the fact that the stock wires are both black and polarity DOES matter. I spent a good thirty minutes running in and out of the house cussing up a storm because I couldn't get one of the signals to work. If you hold the female connector with the wires towards you and the slit upwards, the red wire from the signal should go to the left wire on the connector. This isn't an issue for the plate light since those are color coded. The other 'pro tip' is don't put the heat shrink wire over both wires before soldering...:) Yes, it was getting late and I must have expended all of my common sense on figuring out the lighting issue.
I didn't double check but I think I included that information in the linked "How to Solder" guide which discusses testing for function before even soldering, let alone applying heat shrink. Glad you got it all figured out though!
 

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I just installed mine yesterday, and it looks great. However, one minor detail that was missing from the directions was the fact that the stock wires are both black and polarity DOES matter. I spent a good thirty minutes running in and out of the house cussing up a storm because I couldn't get one of the signals to work. If you hold the female connector with the wires towards you and the slit upwards, the red wire from the signal should go to the left wire on the connector. This isn't an issue for the plate light since those are color coded. The other 'pro tip' is don't put the heat shrink wire over both wires before soldering...:) Yes, it was getting late and I must have expended all of my common sense on figuring out the lighting issue.
FYI, I followed these directions, and perhaps I misunderstood the bolded part, but the polarity was backwards from what you described: with the female plug facing away from you, with the slot facing upwards, the wire coming out the back on the right went to red, left to black.

Perhaps you meant if you hold the connector with the pins facing you, then the wire for the left pin goes to red (which would be correct).

Anyway, thought I'd clarify in case anyone else misunderstood as well.
 

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I didn't like one bolt and double sided tape to secure. I drilled two holes in the tail kit that matched stock tail mount holes. Used two taspered head ss machine screws to secure. With blaze sadlebags I had to make a different mount for the plate. I used spacers,aluminum flat stock, seltaping screws ground off,and longer machine screws to mount it to thr tail plastic mount points. Not all aftermarket parts work together.
 

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the same is true for the how-to thread I did. The issue is that off-site image storage sites may choose to re-organize how their images are stored, so the links may change for the image, but we lack the ability to edit our own posts after a certain amount of time here on this forum to update them.
 

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How the **** did you guys remove the 4mm screws (towards the front of bike) that hold the stock turn signal to the bike?

I'm attaching a picture to show which one I'm talking about. Can't seem to get in there, does the side rear fearing need to be removed?
 

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