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Parts:
New Rage Cycle Fender Eliminator Kit (FEK)
Tools:
Long 6mm Hex Key (Allen)
Long 4mm Hex Key (Allen)
Torx 30 bit or driver
Solder Iron
Solder
Wire cutters/strippers
Heat Gun or lighter
Supplies (optional):
Posi-lock connectors
Assorted Washers
Assorted Nuts
Traction or electrical tape
NRG actually has a great and simple guide for mounting their kit, while the pics are of an older kit on an 1199 the differences are small so it's perfectly usable. Still, I decided to post this how to in order to show the kit in more detail (more pics!) and point out some differences in options for mounting and the routing of wires.
There always seems to be lot's of questions about what's included with this kit so I'll start with pictures of the kit as it arrived. I ordered it direct from NRC and it arrived last week of May 2014, it's the latest revision at that point:
FEK and Plate mount:
Hardware on the back, bolts for plate mount, bolt for FEK mount, heatshrink, spacers, and an acrylic retainer nut:
FEK outer and inner sides (led turns are under the adhesive strips) and plate:
Light Testing with 9v battery, plate and turns:
Instructions:
Pull the passenger seat, empty the trunk, and remove bottom access door:
Remove four 4mm Hex Head bolts:
Lower and disconnect turns and plate light, remove tail:
Cut OEM connectors from tail then strip and solder them onto the appropriate FEK leads OR strip and connect using posi-lock connectors. See How-To guide HERE for more info.
So the NRG kit comes with a tapped (threaded) piece of acrylic (Lexan) that acts as the bolt holding the tail in place. The reason for this is because it's cheap and easy; a nut and washer in one piece using a material they have plenty of. Very clever but not quite to my liking so I checked in my parts bins and I happen to have plenty of suitable hardware to fit this the way I want. Of course not using the stock hardware is optional.
Provided mounting solution vs. modified mounting solution (didn't measure the thread pitch, sorry):
The single bolt holds everything in place going through the original wire pass-through. I moved the wires to pass through around the edge since there was plenty of room and wrapped them with traction tape to prevent chafing. You can also see I removed all the rubber and aluminum grommets that were no longer in use.
Loosely position and attach hardware at the top:
Plug everything in:
Tuck wires away, adjust the position of the tail. When you're happy with it you can pull expose the cover on the adhesive tape strips and then tighten things up with the Torx 30 driver. The tape only partially holds it on, the purpose is really to keep the tail in position since there's otherwise only one point of attachment to the bike.
I actually found that a slightly smaller washer would slip through the upper hole but be too large to slip through the lower hole:
Plate mount detail, I didn't bother to take any other pics of this since it's just unscrewing the two 6mm bolts and using the longer provided ones with a spacer:
Finished install of NRG kit (AKA can 5'6" flatfoot with the DP comfort seat):
New Rage Cycle Fender Eliminator Kit (FEK)
Tools:
Long 6mm Hex Key (Allen)
Long 4mm Hex Key (Allen)
Torx 30 bit or driver
Solder Iron
Solder
Wire cutters/strippers
Heat Gun or lighter
Supplies (optional):
Posi-lock connectors
Assorted Washers
Assorted Nuts
Traction or electrical tape
NRG actually has a great and simple guide for mounting their kit, while the pics are of an older kit on an 1199 the differences are small so it's perfectly usable. Still, I decided to post this how to in order to show the kit in more detail (more pics!) and point out some differences in options for mounting and the routing of wires.
There always seems to be lot's of questions about what's included with this kit so I'll start with pictures of the kit as it arrived. I ordered it direct from NRC and it arrived last week of May 2014, it's the latest revision at that point:
FEK and Plate mount:
Hardware on the back, bolts for plate mount, bolt for FEK mount, heatshrink, spacers, and an acrylic retainer nut:
FEK outer and inner sides (led turns are under the adhesive strips) and plate:
Light Testing with 9v battery, plate and turns:
Instructions:
Pull the passenger seat, empty the trunk, and remove bottom access door:
Remove four 4mm Hex Head bolts:
Lower and disconnect turns and plate light, remove tail:
Cut OEM connectors from tail then strip and solder them onto the appropriate FEK leads OR strip and connect using posi-lock connectors. See How-To guide HERE for more info.
So the NRG kit comes with a tapped (threaded) piece of acrylic (Lexan) that acts as the bolt holding the tail in place. The reason for this is because it's cheap and easy; a nut and washer in one piece using a material they have plenty of. Very clever but not quite to my liking so I checked in my parts bins and I happen to have plenty of suitable hardware to fit this the way I want. Of course not using the stock hardware is optional.
Provided mounting solution vs. modified mounting solution (didn't measure the thread pitch, sorry):
The single bolt holds everything in place going through the original wire pass-through. I moved the wires to pass through around the edge since there was plenty of room and wrapped them with traction tape to prevent chafing. You can also see I removed all the rubber and aluminum grommets that were no longer in use.
Loosely position and attach hardware at the top:
Plug everything in:
Tuck wires away, adjust the position of the tail. When you're happy with it you can pull expose the cover on the adhesive tape strips and then tighten things up with the Torx 30 driver. The tape only partially holds it on, the purpose is really to keep the tail in position since there's otherwise only one point of attachment to the bike.
I actually found that a slightly smaller washer would slip through the upper hole but be too large to slip through the lower hole:
Plate mount detail, I didn't bother to take any other pics of this since it's just unscrewing the two 6mm bolts and using the longer provided ones with a spacer:
Finished install of NRG kit (AKA can 5'6" flatfoot with the DP comfort seat):
Yes, it was getting late and I must have expended all of my common sense on figuring out the lighting issue.
