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I've noticed a few threads recently asking how to attach turn signals and plate light wiring such as those which come with a tail tidy system. By far the best route to go is to either direct solder or solder on OEM connectors. The second best choice in my experience is to use posi-lock connectors either wire to wire or to attach OEM connectors.
OEM connectors, on removed tail:
OEM connectors, on bike:
USING POSI-LOCK CONNECTORS (OR POSI-TAP FOR T CONNECTIONS)
The benifits of posi-lock connectors which make them worth recommending is that they are easy to use, secure, reversible, and can be used as a quick connect in lieu of a male and female plug connector. To attach simply strip the wire as shown, thread the wire through the nut and twist down.
Half completed attachment showing stripped wire, posi-lock connected to one side, ready to finish install connection (note, these posi-locks are one size too big for the wires shown, used as an example):
All connected, demonstration on NRG fender eliminator kit. For permanent posi-lock install heat shrink can be applied but is not necessary. This is very useful for quick installs or temporary testing of items.
SOLDERING CONNECTIONS
The benefits of soldering connections is the ability to assure positive electrical contact, security, permanence, and professional install appearance (or semi-professional). Due to the permanent nature of a solder install it is important to verify connections prior to completing. I'm a strong believer in the professional appearance and security that using heat shrink provides although many are comfortable just using vinyl electrical tape. The choice is yours.
Heat shrink cut, the small heatshrink is glue lined, good for water-tight application:
Heat shrink in place, wires braided. A good mechanical connection prior to soldering is important and should hold a good connection prior to applying solder. My strong yet bulky inline splices, extremely difficult to pull apart even without solder. Also, I would normally stagger my connections but with the limited amount of slack left on the OEM connector I decided not to.
Soldered:
Marine heat shrink applied:
Finished:
These are the only two methods of connecting wires that I like personally, I have tried many different ways to connect wire and it has only been recently that I found and began recommending the use of the posi-lock connectors. The only real drawback for me is that they are a bit pricey and hard to source locally (at least for me). I'm pretty much stuck buying them on Amazon.
The standard crimp connectors and scotch lock connectors are just plain terrible and tend to create electrical gremlins over time. Do it once, do it right and forget about it.
OEM connectors, on removed tail:
OEM connectors, on bike:
USING POSI-LOCK CONNECTORS (OR POSI-TAP FOR T CONNECTIONS)
The benifits of posi-lock connectors which make them worth recommending is that they are easy to use, secure, reversible, and can be used as a quick connect in lieu of a male and female plug connector. To attach simply strip the wire as shown, thread the wire through the nut and twist down.
Half completed attachment showing stripped wire, posi-lock connected to one side, ready to finish install connection (note, these posi-locks are one size too big for the wires shown, used as an example):
All connected, demonstration on NRG fender eliminator kit. For permanent posi-lock install heat shrink can be applied but is not necessary. This is very useful for quick installs or temporary testing of items.
SOLDERING CONNECTIONS
The benefits of soldering connections is the ability to assure positive electrical contact, security, permanence, and professional install appearance (or semi-professional). Due to the permanent nature of a solder install it is important to verify connections prior to completing. I'm a strong believer in the professional appearance and security that using heat shrink provides although many are comfortable just using vinyl electrical tape. The choice is yours.
Heat shrink cut, the small heatshrink is glue lined, good for water-tight application:
Heat shrink in place, wires braided. A good mechanical connection prior to soldering is important and should hold a good connection prior to applying solder. My strong yet bulky inline splices, extremely difficult to pull apart even without solder. Also, I would normally stagger my connections but with the limited amount of slack left on the OEM connector I decided not to.
Soldered:
Marine heat shrink applied:
Finished:
These are the only two methods of connecting wires that I like personally, I have tried many different ways to connect wire and it has only been recently that I found and began recommending the use of the posi-lock connectors. The only real drawback for me is that they are a bit pricey and hard to source locally (at least for me). I'm pretty much stuck buying them on Amazon.
The standard crimp connectors and scotch lock connectors are just plain terrible and tend to create electrical gremlins over time. Do it once, do it right and forget about it.
