[Paulo96]

I have purchased a race 899 bike fitted with Ducabike rearsets. After changing to a GP shift pattern I am getting false neutrals especially on down changes. The gear shift is really stiff and needs a lot of pressure to move the gear lever. Is there a way or a better set up to reduce the amount of force required to move the lever? It is obviously due to the tight angles of the linkage. Tried a Gilles Tooling and it was worse! If we lengthen the linkages to make it easier the lever is going to be in the wrong position... Are there other rear sets that have less intricate rod systems?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[120CCPM]

First of all, disconnect the rod from the gear lever (engine side) and see if the gear lever (footpeg side) moves freely. I'm not familiar with the specific Ducabike rearsets in a GP shift pattern, but in general see if you can adjust the length of the rod and the position of the gear lever (engine side) so that the rod forms a 90 degree angle with both levers (engine and footpeg side). In other words, if you draw imaginary lines between the pivot point and the rod bolt of each lever (engine+footpeg), they should be at 90 degrees with the rod.

 

[Paulo96]

First of all, disconnect the rod from the gear lever (engine side) and see if the gear lever (footpeg side) moves freely. I'm not familiar with the specific Ducabike rearsets in a GP shift pattern, but in general see if you can adjust the length of the rod and the position of the gear lever (engine side) so that the rod forms a 90 degree angle with both levers (engine and footpeg side). In other words, if you draw imaginary lines between the pivot point and the rod bolt of each lever (engine+footpeg), they should be at 90 degrees with the rod.

First of all, disconnect the rod from the gear lever (engine side) and see if the gear lever (footpeg side) moves freely. I'm not familiar with the specific Ducabike rearsets in a GP shift pattern, but in general see if you can adjust the length of the rod and the position of the gear lever (engine side) so that the rod forms a 90 degree angle with both levers (engine and footpeg side). In other words, if you draw imaginary lines between the pivot point and the rod bolt of each lever (engine+footpeg), they should be at 90 degrees with the rod.

Thanks, that has been done. I have put on a longer, modified arm attached to the gear shaft, increased the leverage. It does mean that there is more movement on the lever to select the next gear. Now need to replace one rose-joint as well as remove the play on the shaft to get a more positive feel.