Heat cycles are a thing of the past. Pretty much all new engines now come out of the factories don't require heat cycles through the break-in period. Old engines didn't have the same metallurgy as new one's and they don't expand a contract the same way as an old Norton would
Forgot to mention this it's actually the most important that the mechanic told me rjjr is correct. It's really important to vary your engine speed open it up cut it off and so on. Go through all the gears and what that other member said about going over 6k is alright too just don't stay there.
...and just to expound on that for some, when you come off the throttle, leave it in the gear! This back pressure is very important for fully sealing the rings as well. I've found 3rd/4th gear on a high speed twisty mountain road is great for break-in
I have read this and 100% agree. I just don't know if Ducati agrees, and I do want that sweet warranty.
+1. DDA could show it but thats all.Heat cycles are a thing of the past. Pretty much all new engines now come out of the factories don't require heat cycles through the break-in period. Old engines didn't have the same metallurgy as new one's and they don't expand a contract the same way as an old Norton would
The DDA once installed on the bike could record data for the Duc techs to see what you have been doing but I think this is an add on or at least, you have to turn it on to work.
If you could see what the techs do to your bike before it leaves the factory then would not baby it at all. That being said, you don't want to thrash the living crap out of it but instead load and unload the engine constantly for the first few hundred klms. The most important thing on the bike is to seal the rings properly and the only way to do this is to go up and down throyugh the rev range, varying the loads so that the rings get pushed out under load and compression and seal the best and also run all the way up and down the cylinder walls.
Also note that you want to work the gearbox, brake pads etc in and the suspension will also get more compliant after a few hundred klms.
Maybe also advisable if you are going to thrash the bike to change the oil after a couple hundred klms to remove any metal shards that are dispersed into the oil during the break-in process.
At the end of the day it's your bike and there is sooo many opinions and suggestions about how to do it "the right way" - (including my post), so just go with whatever you think feels right, after all your the one who dropped $ on it.
You'll know if you have done a good job or bad job by the ponies that the bike puts out, how hard it pulls and by the oil usage that it goes through overtime.
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My original bike was taken out for a test ride after they finish installing all the bling and when they pulled it into the garage while i pay the $$$$ they noticed a small pool of fluid developing under the bike, pulled the fairings off and bam! oil leaking down the crankcase, as they were not sure what the problem was (possibly a faulty gasket at the time they though) they just removed all the bling and put it on another new bike and i rode off.
I first notice the leak from a little drip, not puddle so I removed the lower fairings and first thing that came to mind was it was leaking from the oil pan. Wasn't until I brought it in for the first service at 600 miles that they did further inspection and found it leaking from the engine crankcase. They took pictures, sent it to Ducati, had to wait a few weeks for a response, got a call from my dealer and set up an appointment to drop off my bike to have a fresh new engine swapped in
