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Discussion Starter #41
Yes, there are separate circuits for both front and rear ABS, and they work independently from each other. You can test it by just standing on your rear brake when going 20 MPH or so, you'll feel the ABS kick it on the rear. You can do that on the front as well, but if you crash don't blame me! ha ha!

Well, I've felt ABS activation from the front (really odd, never had an ABS bike before). I'll check out the rear next time I get a chance. I usually avoid the rear brake completely unless I'm in loose dirt, stuff like that. I really only use the rear when I'm on a hill stopped in traffic. I had some scary moments with the rear locking up on my old Honda, and eventually I just stopped using it all together. I guess with ABS, I could start again without the same issue. And if it all goes horribly wrong, I won't blame you, lol
 

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Yea it was mentioned to me about switching to a different caliper for better pad availability if nothing else lol

What are you hoping to gain from eliminating the ABS? Better feel?
That's the only reason I replaced the calipers, so I could get racing brake pads now. I'm bypassing the ABS really just as an experiment to see how it changes the braking feel/power with a direct line bypassing the ABS pump. This is the first bike I've ever had with ABS so it's been a new experience. I've been very impressed with stock brakes on the bike, other than the stock pad compound has a mild initial bite which I don't like on the track. But overall these are really good brakes on the 899, I think just adding a grippier pad compound would do the trick for 90% of track riders, and eventually someone will make a racing brake pad that fits those calipers.
 

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That's the only reason I replaced the calipers, so I could get racing brake pads now. I'm bypassing the ABS really just as an experiment to see how it changes the braking feel/power with a direct line bypassing the ABS pump. This is the first bike I've ever had with ABS so it's been a new experience. I've been very impressed with stock brakes on the bike, other than the stock pad compound has a mild initial bite which I don't like on the track. But overall these are really good brakes on the 899, I think just adding a grippier pad compound would do the trick for 90% of track riders, and eventually someone will make a racing brake pad that fits those calipers.

Yea still waiting on a few things for this bike, fuel management would be next in my book



Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Bump, has anyone found a company that makes a race compound pad for these calipers? Are you track/race guys using the ferodos and with what results?
 

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I have Ferod CP1 pads on my Ducati F.E. Which is fitted with 999 calipers and full floating cast iron discs. Best brake feel I have ever experienced. Initial bite, extended bite and most importantly feed back is incredible.


I will get some pads made with Ferodo CP1 material made for my 899 as well to see if I can improve the feel.
 

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I have Ferod CP1 pads on my Ducati F.E. Which is fitted with 999 calipers and full floating cast iron discs. Best brake feel I have ever experienced. Initial bite, extended bite and most importantly feed back is incredible.


I will get some pads made with Ferodo CP1 material made for my 899 as well to see if I can improve the feel.
That would be great if Ferodo made them, but they don't. At least last time I checked a few weeks ago they didn't. They say the DP, XRAC, ZRAC are in development, but not out yet. Hopefully by next season.
 

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That would be great if Ferodo made them, but they don't. At least last time I checked a few weeks ago they didn't. They say the DP, XRAC, ZRAC are in development, but not out yet. Hopefully by next season.
jarelj, if you contact Ferodo directly you may find that they will do custom pads for you, I have had good success with this in the past with a surprisingly quick turn around.

The other option is to provide a brake specialist race company with some bare steel backling plates and get them to bond your material of choice to them for you. I have done this several times over the years with my race cars. Most race brake specialist companies have the bonding equipment, but they can sometimes have difficulty getting the desired pad material. If they can get the material for you (in the right thickness) they can cut it to the shape of the pads and bond it onto a used set of backing plates. The quality of the steel backing plates is important. If they flex you get issues, a good source is recovering a set of warn pads. In the old days it was very common to bond on new material on car brake shoes, as the metal shoes were relatively expensive. Old brake friction material used to contain asbestos and people became very reluctant to grind off old pad material and cut new material to fit. Of course modern pads no longer have asbestos in them.
 

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i may also make up some full floating cast iron brakes for the 899. Below is a pic of the Brembo replica carriers I make for the full floating discs on the earlier Ducatis. That are no longer available from either Ducati or Brembo. The originals were made out of a soft wearing alloy and not hard anodized. I make mine out of hard wearing 7075-T6 and then hard anodize them.
 

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More options

SBS Racing Sinter pads for 899

SBS Motorcycle Brake Pads

Stay away from their dual carbon pads though for road bike use. I have tried the dual carbons on another bike and they wore the discs very quickly and left a sticky and very hard to remove brake dust all over the rims.

"In search of an answer to the power issues I’ve now fitted a set of SBS 900-RS sintered pads (www.bikehps.com, £68.92). After 85 miles with them I’m pleased to say that they’ve made a dramatic difference to the anchors in two key ways. The initial bite is stronger, which causes a slightly more aggressive initial dive from the fork, but means that only a light brush of the lever actually provides useful braking force.

The second manifestation is the gut-clentching improvement in power duration.

A solid prolonged squeeze of the lever at high speed is rewarded with much more consistent retardation, with none of the wooden, fading feeling the OE pads were guilty of.

It’ll be interesting to see how they perform as they age, but for now all my observations are very positive."
Richard Newland, Senior Editor MCN
Ducati 2014 Panigale 899"



Brembo Carbon Ceramic pads

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ducati-Panigale-Brembo-Carbon-Ceramic/dp/B00PLS7ZW2

Brembo Z04 Endurance Racing brake pads

http://www.oppracing.com/product_display/197611-brembo-racing-z03-compound-brake-pad-07a22565/
 

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Interesting comments on the brakes here: Ducati 899 Panigale: long term test report | MCN

"The only fly in my pint this year has been the 899’s brakes. New SBS sintered pads (900RS, from www.bikehps.com) have massively improved the bite and power, especially under prolonged hard braking, but there’s an inconstancy in lever pressure that I find annoying. The calipers are clearly sucking air from somewhere, and the culprit is believed to be ill-sealing bleed nipples in the Brembos – a problem suffered by all bikes fitted with these calipers it would seem – so I’m on a crusade to try and find a solution. A reader tells me he’s sorted his by judicious us of PTFE tape around the nipples (the calipers’, not his), but I’m yet to try this. I’ll keep you informed."
 

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Thinking of what should I go for on my next brake pad change. Ferodo's or EBC ?
Which Ferodo and which EBC pads are you tossing up between?
 

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I just installed Ferodo's HH pad and can report after the first 200 miles that the initial and progressive bite from the Ferodo pads are no better than OEM (which is an HH Brembo pad). I actually feel the Brembo's have slightly more aggressive bite which is what I prefer.
 

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I have the Ferodo SinterGrip pads and just got out for the first time this season .
They do feel better but not a ton.I am more annoyed by the play in the lever, maybe a bleed will help that
 

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I just swapped the levers over to a set of Titax reach adjustable levers. It seems that the Titax levers make the brakes feel much better. I think they improve the angle relationship between the handle, fulcrum and the pin that pushes the piston so that you get closer to a more linear rate of applied braking force. I am still keen to try some other pads but this change has already made a very satisfying improvement.

As standard the 899 lever has much more travel than the lever on my 900SS (which has been retro fitted with a 848 Brembo radial master cylinder of a similar design to the 899s).

For whatever reason the brake lever on the 899 has quite a lot of travel on the 899 and this large movement causes problems with the lever angles.

As the lever moves towards a 90 degree angle between the lever pivot point (fulcrum) and the point where the lever pushes the pin you get a rising rate and conversely as the lever moves further beyond the 90 degree angle between the lever pivot point (fulcrum) and the point where the lever pushes the pin you get a falling rate.

I think with the Panigale 899 levers set up, as you pull on the lever harder you get a falling rate of applied pressure to the master cylinder piston.. so for each pound of extra pressure you apply to the lever you successively get less pressure on this piston.

With the Titax levers (and probably some other reach adjustable levers) you get a slightly rising rate ... so for each pound of extra pressure you apply to the lever you successively get the same or slightly more pressure on the master cylinder piston.

Vested interest disclaimer: The company I work for imports and distributes Titax levers in NZ.
 

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i have the 1098 brembo brakes on my 899 ,
and it is a big improvement
i can push for 20 minutes in sessions on trackdays
before after 10 minutes they felt spongy

i can put more performance brake pads .

defenitely a big improvement
 
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