Dumb Question (Oil Change) - Ducati 899 Panigale Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 01-17-2018, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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Dumb Question (Oil Change)

Hi Guys,
here my dumb question about changing oil to my 899... having read several internet threads, I've got a little confused and I´d like to get some valuable advise from you for peace of mind.

Basically looking at the 899 Owner´s Manual page 240, section Top-ups, for oil sump and filter comes the figure of 3.9 cu. dm (litres). This value matches with all the oil searching tools I have checked (Motul, Penrite, Liqui Moly, Shell) for a Ducati 899 Panigale. For 1199 and 1299 Panigale is 3.7 litres and for 959 Panigale is 3.8 litres.

So until now everything seems to be clear, understanding that in a standard oil service where filter gets replaced and oil changed, 3.9 litres of premium oil must be poured into the engine.

Well..., here is where my confusion starts... after having watched several youtube videos, what I can see is that generally people pour around 3.5 litres of oil then start the engine to circulate the oil (10 secs or so), stop the engine and wait few minutes for the oil to drop down into the sump and then pour additional oil checking through the sight glass until the right level is reached. Well if I do that in my 899, by any means I´m using 3.9 litres of oil!! Which is the figure stated by Ducati within the Owner´s Manual. In addition, when starting the engine, the oil level decreases under the low level mark, almost disappearing from the sight glass. Note that the bike is completely upright sitting on top of the rear and front stands.
So, going the other way around, pouring the 3.9 litres into the engine, according to what is stated in the Owner´s Manual takes the oil level up to the very top of the sight glass, clearly overflowing the 2 level marks. However, in this case, when starting the engine, the oil level descends in between of the 2 level marks (closer to the bottom one) but as soon as engine starts to warm up slightly comes up above the mid point between the marks closer to the upper one getting in the right spot (I presume level raises because as long as oil gets hotter it expands a bit). Note that in this case again the bike is upright and sitting on top of the rear and front stands.

In page 227 of the Owner´s Manual, section Check engine oil level, it is stated that engine oil must be checked with the bike perfectly upright with the engine cold, and then make sure that the oil level is in between the marks of the sight glass.

Summarising, to check the oil level, the bike must be perfectly upright and engine cold, but should be on or off??

By pouring the 3.9 litres of oil into the engine (what Owner´s Manual states), there is no way the oil level sits between the 2 marks unless the engine is started. So I assume that the oil level check must be done with the bike upright, cold and engine running, am I right?

Thanks in advance,
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post #2 of 13 Old 01-18-2018, 04:15 PM
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@anaurath

There are a lot of variables here - one is how completely you get the old oil drained, how close to EXACTLY vertical the bike is etc.

So here is what I'm doing - Mine is a racebike, so there is some nuance here.

1) Warm up the bike - In my case I have to let the bike cool some because I have to remove the exhaust to get the belly pan (required for racing) off of my bike. Warming up the bike gets the old oil to flow much better than if it's cold.

2) Remove the drain plug and let the oil drain. Once that stops I cycle the motor a couple revolutions on the starter motor, but don't let the bike start, to cycle the oil out of the high volume scavenge pump.

3) Remove the oil filter, wipe as much oil out of the oil filter cavity with a blue Scott towel.

4) Replace O-Rings on the oil filter cover

5) Replace the crush washer on the drain bolt

6) Replace oil filter / cover - set appropriate torque

7) Replace drain plug - set appropriate torque

8) Add 3 quarts / liters of oil.

9) Start engine, make sure oil pressure light goes off

10) Shut engine down and allow to sit for a few minutes

11) Check oil level

12) Add oil to get level between the sight lines.

13) Start / Stop engine allow to settle for a minute

14) Confirm appropriate oil level

There is an acceptable "range" of oil levels in our machines, so the difference between 3.7 and 3.8 liters is completely insignificant, but trying to use a fixed volume to change the oil is probably not the best choice due to the variability in how the bike drains each time.

I hope that helps

Scott
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post #3 of 13 Old 01-19-2018, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot Scott.

In addition to a call I made to the dealer, your reply has been of a great help.

Cheers mate!!
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post #4 of 13 Old 08-06-2019, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rybo View Post
@anaurath

There are a lot of variables here - one is how completely you get the old oil drained, how close to EXACTLY vertical the bike is etc.

So here is what I'm doing - Mine is a racebike, so there is some nuance here.

1) Warm up the bike - In my case I have to let the bike cool some because I have to remove the exhaust to get the belly pan (required for racing) off of my bike. Warming up the bike gets the old oil to flow much better than if it's cold.

2) Remove the drain plug and let the oil drain. Once that stops I cycle the motor a couple revolutions on the starter motor, but don't let the bike start, to cycle the oil out of the high volume scavenge pump.

3) Remove the oil filter, wipe as much oil out of the oil filter cavity with a blue Scott towel.

4) Replace O-Rings on the oil filter cover

5) Replace the crush washer on the drain bolt

6) Replace oil filter / cover - set appropriate torque

7) Replace drain plug - set appropriate torque

8) Add 3 quarts / liters of oil.

9) Start engine, make sure oil pressure light goes off

10) Shut engine down and allow to sit for a few minutes

11) Check oil level

12) Add oil to get level between the sight lines.

13) Start / Stop engine allow to settle for a minute

14) Confirm appropriate oil level

There is an acceptable "range" of oil levels in our machines, so the difference between 3.7 and 3.8 liters is completely insignificant, but trying to use a fixed volume to change the oil is probably not the best choice due to the variability in how the bike drains each time.

I hope that helps

Scott
Just to be clear, you're not using new parts (crush washer, o-rings, etc.) with every oil change, right? I thought an oil change only included changing a filter, and not the other parts.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.
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post #5 of 13 Old 08-07-2019, 05:49 PM
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Sound like the confusion you are experience deals with the oil level when the engine is running.

The correct oil level (between the two marks on the sight glass) should be achieved when the engine IS NOT running. When you start the bike it draws oil into the pump and distributes it throughout the engine. This will cause the oil level to drop below the two marks WHILE RUNNING. This is normal and how it should be.

When you turn the bike off, the oil drains down to the pan and the oil level returns back to the 2 marks on the sight glass.

As far as the volume of oil to add, it depends on a variety of factors. But generally this is why people add 3.5... run the bike , turn the bike off, add oil back to the middle of the two lines. This may be an additional .1 to .3L. As long as the oil level is in the middle of the two lines with the engine off (after running it, turning it off, wait for 1 minute) , then you have the correct amount of oil.

Side note, if you added oil so that it’s between the two line when the engine is running then you will illl likely end up with other problems like oil spitting out of the breather.
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post #6 of 13 Old 08-09-2019, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helishmeli View Post
Just to be clear, you're not using new parts (crush washer, o-rings, etc.) with every oil change, right? I thought an oil change only included changing a filter, and not the other parts.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.
You need to replace oil filter o-rings, and the drain plug washer, or at least that's highly recommended.
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post #7 of 13 Old 08-09-2019, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helishmeli View Post
Just to be clear, you're not using new parts (crush washer, o-rings, etc.) with every oil change, right? I thought an oil change only included changing a filter, and not the other parts.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I replace all of them at every change - they come in the oil filter kit from Ducati and it's cheap insurance.
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post #8 of 13 Old 08-10-2019, 02:57 PM
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Yup, you should always replace the o rings and crush washer.
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post #9 of 13 Old 08-12-2019, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rybo View Post
I replace all of them at every change - they come in the oil filter kit from Ducati and it's cheap insurance.
Do you have a part number for the kit? All I see if part no. 44440312B, which is only the oil filter.
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post #10 of 13 Old 08-12-2019, 02:36 PM
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Wait, nevermind I think I found it on amazon.

It doesn't have a part number for the kit as a whole, only part numbers for the individual components.
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